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Best CAMERA & LENSES for Landscape Photography



Best CAMERA & LENSES for Landscape Photography

What is the best gear for landscape photography? I’m thinking about buying new gear and want to get the best possible camera and lenses for my requirements as a landscape photographer.
In this video, I’ll tell you my thoughts about how I decide for the right sensor size, the camera body, and the lenses – and when you should and when you shouldn’t think about buying new camera gear.

Christian Irmler
Landscape Photography Vlog – Tips – Tutorial

► Maybe my new gear for 2021 (affiliate links):
Sony A7RIV: https://amzn.to/3fgJnwA
Sony 16-35 f2.8 GM: https://amzn.to/33Qftdz
Sony 24-70 f2.8 GM: https://amzn.to/3uIZae3
Sony 70-200 f2.8 GM: https://amzn.to/33Elr0I
Sony SEL-14TC 1.4x Teleconverter: https://amzn.to/3hlujRe
SMALLRIG L-Bracket: https://amzn.to/3pJYWAL

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► Location:
Austria/Salzkammergut

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36 comments
  1. Size and weight is definitely an issue. When we can see what smartphones can do today, the iPhone 12 Pro Max for instance, we can hope for the arrival fairly soon of much smaller and lighter cameras, at least as competent as the current FF. But because of marketing factors, it may not be for another 5 years or a little more, when smartphones will be so “good” that many “serious” photographers with backache will stop buying bulky professional gear.
    The main problem I foresees is, how will professionals still look professional when all they will have is gear that’s not much bigger than a smartphone, and how will they warrant their professional fees because of that ?

  2. My landscape combo consists of a Fuji GFX100 plus Fuji GF23mm 4.0. And I also use an adapted Zeiss APO 135mm 2.0 which works brilliantly on the GFX100 – basically no vignetting, a stellar lens for landscape work.

  3. Sehr schönes Video, als Teleobjektiv habe ich ein Tamron 70 210 f4, das ist nicht zu leicht, nicht zu schwer, spritzwassergeschützt und man kann ei e Stativschelle befestigen 🙂

  4. I changed from Canon full frame to Fuji at the beginning of 2020 and love the fuji system, I have the X-T2 and Samyang 12mm f2 lens for astro, fuji 10-24mm f4 for landscapes and seascapes, 27mm f2.8 for astro and a 50-230mm for my tele lens.
    Also I've never had a problem editing raw images from fuji in Light room and never had to change them to tiff files

  5. Hi Christian
    Wow some major decisions to be made. I just upgraded to two Nikon d500's and Tamron G lenses so I know what you are going through. Great video with lots of content. Cheers from Canada.

  6. Thomas Heaton, one of the premiere landscape photographers out there, uses a set of f/4 lenses on a full frame body, f/2.8 is really heavy (I own a 70-200 f/2.8 so I know…), consider f/4 lenses.

  7. After years with a Canon 6D, I moved to a Sony A7RIV last fall and I am very happy with it. Depth of field was a thing to think twice about back when I moved to full-frame, but nowadays it is the lack of ultra-wide lenses that make APS-C and MFT no option. And in case of Sony, the APS-C bodies are just too small to feel comfortable in my hands.

    As ffor the lenses, I went with the 12-24 GM at the wide end as I did want the wide angle. I am not a big filter user (I like my waterfalls only very slightly blurred, not surreal), but there is a 150mm holder system by NISI that mounts on the lens hood, if you can not do without. Went for the GM over the G because the latter is not too great in backlit situations and with 12 mm the sun will be in the frame more often that not. The GM is absolutely fantastic in this regard, it is incredible how much contrast there is and how it only falls off between the beams of the sun star. This lens alone was a huge factor in switching to Sony.
    Paired with the A7RIV, I can do a single hand heeld shot and crop it wide to get what used to be a tripod based 2 or 3 shot panorama before – big difference on a long hike with many beatiful views.

    Other than that I went with the 24-105 G, not a fan of that longer range (compared to 24-70) either, but this particular one is pretty sharp and according to Lens Rentals its the best 24-105 out there. Contrast straight into the sun is noticeably worse than the 12-24 GM (which is just extremely good). At 24 mm (and thanks to the megapixmels available easily up to 35mm too) I could switch to the 12-24 GM, chances of having the sun in the frame will be lower the longer the focal length and finally 24-70 is my least used range anyway, so the low weight is a more important factor anyway.

    On the long end I went with the 100-400 GM to keep my reach (had a 70-200 and 2x TeleConverter with Canon). Focus speed in low light is noticeably worse than the 70-200 f/2.8, but that is no surprise and nothing that was relevant for landscape.
    For an ambitious hike that does not promise to offer that demanding telephoto opportunites it can stay at home and cropping in on the 105 mm can still do the trick.

    BTW, the issue with Fuji RAW images is not just the file format, the entirely different pixel layout in the X-Trans sensors compared to the Bayer pattern used by everyone else not only requires according demosaicing support (which is present e.g. in Darktable), but also needs (or at least would benefit from) adaption in some of the other modules/filters (whatever the RAW processor at hand calls them) later in the pipeline, as some of these are optimized for pressing an image that is the result of demosaicing an image with a Bayer sernsor.

  8. You dismissed the 24-105 too quickly, the 24-70 is getting a little old and will be updated soon and in terms of quality the 24-105 is just as good if not better. I’d reconsider and maybe go with your first thought 16-35, 24-105, 100-400.

  9. So the best gear for landscape photography… is indeed the best gear in the shop. You can't really beat GM lenses. Apparently, there is not much of a choice of APS-C design lenses. As a pro, I think you can justify the purchase of such gear. But if it was me, I'd keep both sigmas, and get those FF lenses to cover the rest – 24-70mm and 70-200. And leave 16-35 and the body for the next year… Because even if I'd like to upgrade to ff, I won't be ready to spend the price of a car at once 🙂

    Or, there is Sigma 24-70 2.8, and sony 70-350, but they can't compete with GM of course.

  10. Hi, new sub 👍

    Really interesting video, I moved from Canon full frame over to Fuji xt3 and I love it, I also recently purchased the 50-140 with the 1.4 convertor and I have been so impressed with the Fuji kit, Mark 2 10-24 on order currently 😁

    All the best for 2021 🥂

  11. Here a proud owner of a Fujifilm system, mainly used for landscape photography… I have a 10-24, 16-55, 50-140 and finally the 100-400 and am really happy with the sharpness and weight/size relation. When the X-H2 comes out this year, will be switching to It. I don't feel the real need to "upgrade" to FF… Since I'm very happy with the colours Fuji is able to offer and the dynamic range is enough. We always have the possibility to do some exposure stacking.

    Talking about image processing, perhaps you should give a try to Iridient which, through a dng conversion, allows you to maintain your workflow in LR, recovering your photos pin-sharp at the same time. Other professional landscape photographers using Fuji work this way.

    Best wishes for this new year and above all, bleib Gesund!

    Iñaki

  12. Hi Christian! Great video! I’m having the same issue for the a6000. When I look for a good long telephoto the 50-70mm is missing. Tamron has a 17-70 f2.8 coming out for apsc that looks interesting which I’m thinking of checking out. As for the α7R IV and GM lenses they’re just amazing! But as you mentioned the cost and weight are definitely some drawbacks.

  13. Hallo thx for sharing your ideas. Which lens are you going to use on Apsc wide angle for the sharpness from front to back? With only the GM lenses strating at 16mm you loose that wide angle possibility …

  14. Das ist wohl eine Wissenschaft für sich, ein sehr interessanter Beitrag, Christian. Mein Hauptkriterium wäre tatsächlich das “Gewicht-Leistungsverhältnis”, da ich auch ohne Fotoausrüstung immer den schwersten Rucksack von allen schleppe 🙈🙈, aber das ist ein anders Thema…
    Ich wünsche dir ein gutes neues Jahr und freue mich auf weitere schöne Fotos von dir! 🍀😄

  15. Since you need a second body anyway (for video) why not keep your crop body with the wide lenses for the DoF /foreground shots and get a cheaper a7r2 or 3 and the 70-200+1.4x. Also look at the tamron/sigma 70-200s. Hope this helps. By the way Canon makes both crop and FF bodies and you could get something like a 80 or 90D for your crop work and 5DSr for FF and there are loads of 3rd party lenses ditto for Nikon D500 and D850.

  16. Fuji the only one that understands size and weight issues? Seriously? Have you never heard of m43 – Olympus and Panasonic? Two years ago I bought an Oly and have never looked back. I can print up to A2 and don't have to carry loads of kilos. Happy New Year. Looking forward to following your adventures in 2021.

  17. I also love apsc for depth of field and use very similar equipment incl the a6000 & and a6500. I am currently saving for the Sony E 70-350mm F4.5-6.3 G OSS to solve the tele-lens issue for me. Not as great as the GM lenses, but won’t break the bank. Thanks for your great and inspiring youtube channel.

  18. At the end…so, if you have 50 or 60 megapixels, you can, effectively, use the sensor as a "zoom lens", because you can get almost 2:1 range in "focal length", and still have enough pixels to get the print size you need, oder? This means that you can get a little bit around some "gaps" in focal lengths, reducing,by a bit, some of your constraints on lens selection. The newer Canon bodies seem to be offering quite good features, and megapixels, plus, I think, personally, that Canon has a bigger lens selection than Sony. a TS24, for instance, would give you, effectively, a a 24-35 "zoom", through cropping, and the ability to get whatever amount of foreground sharpness that you want! A TS90 would give you a zoom range of 90-144 mm ? Also, if you went to Canon R5, for instance, they have some super new lenses, rather light, and apparently rather good performance. Big decisions to change systems, and, if you are changing everything, you do, as you pointed out, have the possibility to look at all. Sorry that I'm such a Canon fan, but they've been brutally reliable, and have lenses that are unique to Canon.
    For me, having shot with large format, medium format, and 35 mm, I find the TS lenses to be a game-changer in your creative possibilities.
    End of rant 😉 Gutes Neues Jahr, viel Spaß mit Ihren Entscheidungen!

  19. Just a small thing; I shoot with long lenses, a lot, and find that hanging my camera bag, or something similar, on the camera, on the tripod, really helps quite a bit for stability. I also us, in some cases, a little chain that screws into the tripod socket on the camera, to the ground, and put your toe on that, which gives you another mounting point, and allows you to even make microscopic adjustments, buy just pushing more or less, with your foot on the chain.

  20. Mensch! Du brauchst ein TS lens, or three ;-). My best-selling stock photo was shot with a TS35.. for depth of field, can you not use full-frame Inn"cropped" mode? Still does not change the weight, or price of full-frame lenses, though. And, as a guy who has wandered around in some little hikes, carrying P67, 3 lenses, tripod, filters…and, that's just in little hikes (well, it was at 3000 m), nothing like Dolomiten or Alps…

  21. Servus Christian,
    abgesehen von der Fotofrage welche Kamera (und da wäre ich mit dir absolut d‘accord) würde ich auf den gleichen Body zurückgreifen. Die Frage nach den passenden Objektiven (auch Neubeschaffung) beschäftigt mich allerdings auch seit Wochen und darum bin ich dir um dieses Video sehr dankbar 🙂
    Bei den Objektiven von Sony bin ich (genauso wie du) etwas im Zwiespalt. Wobei ich für mich entschieden habe, das mir eine 4er Offenblende ausreichen würde. Allerdings habe ich mir oft die Alternative von Tamron angeschaut. Mit der „Holy Trinity“ wäre der Bereich von 17-180 mm abgedeckt und das mit 3 Objektiven die alle Blende 2.8 besitzen und zudem noch kostengünstiger sind als Sony. Allerdings bin ich nach etlichen Reviews immer noch unentschlossen und bin auf deine Meinung gespannt. VG Alex

  22. I would go Full Frame and if you want APSC ..Go DX or Crop..I do that with Wild Life ..70-200 2.8 ..plus 2x convertor (No image degradation on the Z system/mount (140-400 f5.6) and then for 600mm go to DX (1.5x crop )I Shoot Z7 so a crop gets me down to Z6 levels of Resolution

  23. Hallo Christian!
    In meinem fall verwende Ich das 16-35/2.8 , 24-70/2.8 und das 70-200/4 dazu die a6300 wegen des Cropfaktors, gerade im Telebereich und die a7ii Vollformat um mein Glas optimal nutzen zu können (gerade im Weitwinckel). Mit diesen 3 Objektiven und den beiden Sensorgrößen hab Ich so zimlich alles abgedeckt was mir wichtig ist. Das einzige was bei mir überfällig währe ist die a7ii , gerade wenn es zum Druck kommt währen mir mehr Megapixel recht, die a7r4 währe schon echt interesant und du hast auch die möglichkeit mehr ins Bild rein zu cropen, auch wenn das nicht die feine Engliche ist , aber die ist einfach zu teuer… die andere Option ist die a7r2 ,da könnte Ich sogar die Akkus überal noch nützen aber die ist halt auch nicht mehr die neueste 🙈

  24. Hello an interesting video and good to hear your thoughts. Ive also use the Sony APSC format and agree the telephoto was a weak point but for me this was solved with the 70-350 G with is a very nice lens but has the weight to match the APSC cameras' nicely. Im surprised this was not part of your considerations. If you body is not that stabe would a better tripod not be another option.? Really enjoyed the video.

  25. Hallo Christian, interessantes Video. Hast Du dich mal bei Nikon umgeschaut, bei der Z-Serie hast Du auch die Möglichkeit in den DX Mode (Aps-C) umzuschalten. Die Z7 hatt dann im DX Mode noch 20mp. Du kannst an den Nikon´s mit dem neuen Z Mount per Adapter auch alle alten Nikon Objektive anschließen. Vielleicht findest Du bei Nikon ein Setup was Dir zu sagt. Was ist mit Adaptern für die Sony, findest Du bei anderen Herstellern keine Alternative zu den recht teuren Sony Objektiven?
    Ich war auch die letzten Jahre mit einer Nikon D5300, also APS-C Sensor, untwegs und habe mir letztes Jahr dazu noch eine Nikon Z6 gekauft. DIe Möglichtkeit beide Formate zu haben finde ich auch immer wieder sehr intessant und möchte ich auch nicht mehr missen.

  26. Servus Christian u. Ein feines 21-er Jahr für Dich. Was das beste für Dich ist, wirst letztendlich nur Du selber richtig entscheiden. Ich kann lediglich ein paar wenige Erfahrungen auf meinem "Gear Weg" da lassen.
    Genau so wie bei Dir ist Gewicht schon ein zentrales Thema. Ich habe mir deshalb auch extra eine 2. Kamera, lediglich mit einen Tele zoom gekauft (Fuji). Vom Gewicht her unschlagbar. Warum ich davon aber wieder weg bin, hat einen "komischen" Grund. Durch das Besitzen von 2 verschiedenen Systemen bin ich für mich drauf gekommen, das dies für mich kontraproduktiv ist. Jede Marke hat ihre Eigenheiten, die es zu berücksichtigen gilt. Dadurch hab ich doch sehr oft "herumgetüftelt" u. letztendlich zu viel Zeit mit verschiedenen Bedienelemente verplempert. Ich hab sie wieder weggegeben, habe jetzt 1 Marke in VF, 2 Kameras, die fast ident zu bedienen sind und 3 Linsen (16-35, 24-105 u 100-400, alles f. 4). Der dadurch notwendige Gewichtskompromiss ist für mich OK. Ich fühle mich gut positioniert
    LG Klaus

  27. Hi Christian great video and thanks for sharing your ideas for the upgrade. For me and my photography I would have the A7R4 with 16-35GM & 100-400mmGM. I’m either wide or zoomed in on birds or mountain tops. I very rarely shoot in the mide range and having a 60MP sensor I would be able to crop in. I don’t use teleconverters as I can crop, especially on that sensor and not lose much in resolution. Have a great weekend my friend and Happy New Year 🎆 🙏

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